June 26

We decided to tour only the atomic bomb site and memorials and head to Kyoto yet later today.  There is really so much to see, but we can keep it for another time.  Our real goal was WW II.  

We walked first in search of something to eat.  Ironically the hotel houses a sort of convenience store for part of the first floor but we wanted something more than something from a bag. We thought we were going to perhaps not get breakfast as we couldn’t find anything, but as we walked around the area we happened to turn the corner and see something open. It smelled amazing and there was food sitting out and signs on the wall and a wonderful person who didn’t speak a word of English! We pointed to the picture and the coffee machine and she nodded.  She came to our seat with an empty coffee cup and we figured out we needed to get our own coffee.  😊 While we were waiting we noticed several patrons come in and pick up empty boxes and pick foods from those displayed.  Hmm.  There were also some boxes already made up so they could just use the grab and go option.  Our breakfast bowls arrived, rice with an amazing sauce drizzled on it, a pork cutlet, and eggs! Another OMG! Tasty! 

Nagasaki suffered an Allied nuclear attack on August 9, 1945. The event is memorialized at the city’s Atomic Bomb Museum and Peace Park.

Unknown to most, for 12 months prior to the nuclear attack, Nagasaki had already experienced five small-scale air attacks by an aggregate of 136 U.S. planes!  Of these, a raid on August 1, 1945, was most effective, with a few of the bombs hitting the shipyards and dock areas in the southwest portion of the city, several hitting the Mitsubishi Steel and Arms Works, and six bombs landing at the Nagasaki Medical School and Hospital, with three direct hits on buildings there. While the damage from these few bombs was relatively small, it created concern in Nagasaki and a number of people, principally school children, were evacuated to rural areas for safety, thus reducing the population in the city at the time of the atomic attack.  On the day of the nuclear strike (August 9, 1945) the population in Nagasaki was estimated to be approximately 263,000.  Less than a second after the detonation, the north of the city was destroyed and 35,000 people were killed, and then more died. 

In the center of the complex is the Hypocenter Park with a simple, black monolith that marks the explosion's epicenter. Not far from it stands a damaged pillar of the former Urakami Cathedral. When completed in 1925 (It was started in 1895.) until its destruction in 1945, it was the largest Christian structure in the Asia-Pacific region.  As the Feast of the Assumption of Mary (August 15) was near, Mass was held on that day and was, unfortunately,  well attended. The resulting collapse and heat-wave cindered and buried all those present in the Cathedral. 

On the hill above the Hypocenter Park stands the sobering Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum with the mission to inform future generations about the horror of war. Next to the museum stands a memorial hall for the victims of the atomic bomb. The hall is located mainly underground and its design involves water and light. These memorials and most of the others we visited here all incorporate water as the surviving victims were all parched and begging for water after the bomb struck.  

Again, it was difficult being here, watching videos of survivors telling their stories about their survival or the losses of their loved ones, seeing the artifacts, bottles and other things fused together due to the heat, metal beams twisted due to the energy of the blast, and the photos of total destruction and charred victims.  There was a relief map depicting countries that house nuclear weapons located as you’re leaving the memorial, its goal to get you to think about what you just saw and what could very realistically happen since so many countries still house nuclear arsenals.  

 

North across the street from the Hypocenter Park lies the Memorial Park that contains the iconic Peace Statue, a large fountain and various other memorials presented to the city by various governments and groups from across the world. We encountered school groups and others, slowly making their way through the memorials.  

We met a survivor of the bombing. His name is Inosuke Hayasaki and he was 14 on that fateful day.  Irvin was also working at age 14.  He had been sent to another plant to work that day and was just entering the building when the bomb exploded.  He was blown behind a pillar which blocked the heat and blast. He was 1 of only 2 people that survived.  His goal is to convey the very real fear of atomic bombs. 

So much sadness and reflections and fear.

It actually rained on us today, our first day of the entire month.  It has rained but only at night or while we were driving.  This was the first time we had to get out our rain gear! My knee which had been hit and miss, was getting more strained.  We hobbled the mile and a half to the train station, got our tickets, a snack for the train, and boarded.  

While we were at the memorial we noticed a small camera crew waiting there for “someone.”  It turns out that it was European Council President Donald Tusk; he is the first head of the key European Union body to visit an atomic bombed city in Japan.  To be fair, we didn’t see actually see him but saw the film crews, etc.  

When we were at the train station we noticed a large group with body guards entering the first car of our train.  They exited in Osaka.  We are not sure who they were but it could very well have been Mr. Tusk and his entourage.  

Strangely enough, guess what is going on in Osaka right now? The G20 Summit!! That makes THREE summers in a row we’ve been in the city that has been hosting the summit while it’s going on! I wondered if the western portion of the USA is hosting next year?!😂 We didn’t stay in Osaka; we just passed through. 

We left the train station and walked to our accommodations for the evening, an apartment/hotel.  We were greeted and checked in by a gentleman from Finland and our room had a washer/dryer (literally one unit!)!  THANK YOU, Andrew!!  That was a wonderful surprise!!  It was a great place, small but very efficient, super, super clean! We dropped our bags and headed out and found a restaurant.  We had “skewers” of various chicken parts.  :) It was good but did include gizzards, livers, and hearts!  On the way home we found a stand that had bananas—oh yummy!!    Most restaurants don’t have vegetables unless they are mixed in with a sauce of some kind or fruit at all. 

Good night.  Tomorrow Kyoto.