EPILOGUE chapter 4.   Based on Irvin’s notes (penciled in list of key dates) he spent 41 days in Leyte. Arrived December 14, 1944 and boarded ship to next stop in Luzon on January 24, 1945.  The initial invasion started on October 18 on the west side of island where we spent our time.  MacArthur stepped ashore on October 20.  This was where he returned. 2+ years after defeat and promising “We shall return”.  Fighting continued inland over next weeks.  Never have nailed exact areas Irvin was in.  Best I can tell is the 38th was part of landings on eastern side of island near Ormoc City (about 30 miles as the crow flys) starting December 7 to attack remaining Japanese strongholds from the rear.  

Assumption is Irvin did a beach landing here, probably south of Ormoc. I remember asking him once. Said he did twice. Once in Leyte. Not under fire, but stepped off into water.  Worked their way inland and guess final staging and boarding for Luzon in Tacloban harbor area where we stayed. The 38th was again part of mop up operations here with minimal fighting after initial landings. Don’t remember Irvin reference to any battles here... closer..

The sites / memorials we did visit were in obscure areas and slowly fading away.  No evidence of ongoing maintenance.  As the generations evolve the significance declines.  The typhoon Yolanda definitely left destruction and strained their resources, but the sense is history is quickly becoming forgotten.  Some effort to spruce up at MacArthur landing memorial, but probably mainly for political “show” around upcoming 75th anniversary date.   Guides did a great job taking us into those obscure nooks and crannies to see what remains.

The “urban” areas we visited were definitely “3rd world”... Cheryl’s descriptions may even be too kind. As we ventured into the rural areas probably got closer to what Irvin experienced.  Bamboo huts.  Water buffalo pulling a plow.  Population of Philippines now over 100 million... then less than 16.. and most of that in Manila area.  Hard to understand... years away from home...other side of the world... mostly jungles... defending liberty for us all... death and destruction... barely comprehending where you are at and still not knowing what lies ahead...

The site where the first American flag was raised that October back in 1944 was interesting. Memorial falling apart, but still accessible.  (barely.. watch your step... don’t back up too far = broken off concrete ledge/ 5 foot drop off then down a hill/cliff) Right next to a home / repair shop / junkyard.  One of locals grabbed Cheryl’s attention while I was still absorbing the history.  Turned around and she was gone... I followed later. Walked her over through the muddy “driveway” and showed her a US soldier helmet, old and rusting,  he had hanging on his fence post.  RIP